Is it really the water?

Having just returned from a short week in northern NJ, I did my best to return to the dining staples that characterized my youth growing up in Bergen County. If there is one constant to why I think food just tastes better in the tri-state area it is the water. This theory is evident in the breads produced in and around the Garden State.  Let’s examine a few:

Bagels.   My mother Fay is the consummate expert on a good bagel and I rely on her to ensure my bagel experience is the best that NJ can offer.  Indeed, my bagel experiences with my mother are rarely short of excellent.  She prefers Paul’s Emerson Bagels in Emerson, NJ (although I lean towards Ronnie’s in Hillsdale).   According to Fay, a good bagel is still warm in the bag, has a slight crisp when you delicately poke into its outer shell and an inside that is moist, airy, and a bit chewy.  The ONLY way to achieve this is to boil the bagel in water before baking it.  I believe the rest of the country either does not get this step or the water that the bagels are boiled in is just different.  This is why bagels outside of the tri-state area must be toasted before consuming and becomes more rolls than bagels.  IMHO, a toasted bagel is a ruined bagel.  

Pizza.  Pizza aficionados argue about the sauce, the cheese, and  the toppings.  Nope—none of the above—it’s the crust.  No need for further argument here (you can leave a comment though).   Is it the water that makes the crust good?  Perhaps.  Since the Lisanti Corp. carries the majority of tri-state boxed pizza supplies, cheeses, oils, sauces, carry-out boxes, etc., the one thing that differs from one strip mall pizza shop to the next is the locally-made dough.   I am convinced that if Lisanti also supplied the dough from say, Pittsburgh, the pizza would not stand up to what makes NY/NJ pizza great.  The pizza crust is what makes a pizza great.  Pizza crust should be thin, able to wilt a bit on the end when you pick up a slice (YES, PIZZA MUST BE CONSUMED WITH THE HANDS, folding the slice from the crust.  Save the knife and fork for the next time you’re in Chicago eating a pizza casserole).  I think the mark of a good slice of ‘zah is the first bite and the last bite.  Everything in between is spent thinking about the first bite and the anticipation of getting to the thicker crust (or as my kids used to call them “pizza bones” since they would leave a few on the plate after finishing a slice). 

Other water-based thoughts.  I’ve always thought the food just tasted better in NJ.  Chinese food, corned beef sandwiches, hot dogs (see the Rutt’s Hut post) all deserve a nod.  Jersey diners serve just about the best home cooking you can get.  Even the simple “buttered roll and coffee” duo tastes better in the tri-state area.  Is it the water?  Is it the nostalgia?  Is it simply that the tri-state palate demands quality foods and tastes?  Perhaps all play a part; however, with all things being equal, the water must have something to do with it.

Amma Vegetarian Kitchen

344 Maple Avenue East
Vienna, VA 22180

Preparing for a snowy weekend in October, I stopped by Amma’s at lunch time on a Saturday to stock up on a variety of dishes to warm up over a few days. The two guys behind the counter offered to help with my selection, as this was my first visit and I was not familiar with the menu of “South Indian” fare. The prices on the menu seemed reasonable (read cheap), so I select a mixture of appetizers and entrees to take home. Judging by the simple furniture and décor, not much overhead is needed to run Amma’s, which is reflected in the price. The restaurant had a steady stream of customers and half the tables were full, which gave me hope that I was in for a pleasant experience and a feast of flavors.

I walked out with the following 8 items:

· 1 Starter: Vada (black lentil dumpling served with sambar and coconut chutney on the side)

· 2 Sides: Masala (spiced mashed potatoes and onions) and Aviyal (mixed vegetables with a coconut base)

· 1 Pancake: Onion Uttappam (pancake topped with onions)

· 1 Pullav: Curd rice (rice mixed with yogurt served with pappadam and pickle)

· 3 Entrees: Mysore sada dosa (crepe spread with sambar (stew of mixed vegetables) and spicy chutney); Rava paneer dosa (homemade shredded cheese wrapped in a crepe made from semolina, sprinkled cumin seeds, ginger and green chilis, served with sambar and chutney); and Potato bhaji (dried puffy bread served with a spiced potato side)

There is an extra charge of $1 per each “take out” container, although this is not specified anywhere in writing and the prices on the menu do not necessarily reflect reality because the menu says “prices subject to change without notice.” OK, moving on to the food itself.

What a disappointment. Frankly, all the entrees tasted about the same because of the overwhelming amount of cumin seeds and onion in all of them. The flavors – other than cumin and onions – were really nonexistent, and indeed these two flavors were overwhelming and boring. Between all the things I ordered, I received so many portions of the “sambar” (South Indian mixed vegetable stew), that really I was confused why all the items had different names, when they really all contained seemingly the same spices (cumin and onion) and all came with the sambar, which seems to be Amma’s signature side dish. Actually, the sambar was the only relatively flavorful dish. Other than that, there were no tangy sauces or distinguishing aromas to any of the items - they all seemed dry and unexciting. The potato dishes came with a heavy dose of onions also. In a word – blah.

In addition to the disappointing food, there was no sense of hospitality on behalf of the guys behind the desk, who seemed to just oversuggest more items for me to order. While waiting for my food that totaled about $50.00, the guys offered me an “Indian spicy tea” while I wait. The tea came in a tiny styrofoam cup and I swear was nothing more than a regular soak of a Chai tea with a drop of creamer, for which they charged me $1.72. Needless to say, this restaurant is not my “cup of tea” and I will not be returning.

Our First Open Restaurant Thread

For those regular viewers of the Restaurant Blog, we've got a challenge for you.  Click on the comment block below and for our first survey thread, here's the topic:

What is the name of first restaurant you remember as a child, where was it, what did they serve, and most importantly, what made it special?

Dont be shy.  We look forward to reading your comments!

Rutt's Hut, Clifton, New Jersey

After years of arm twisting—ok, it was over a beer at happy hour last Wednesday—I decided to add an important entry on Hot Dogs.  Being true to New Jersey, and having the pleasure of dogs from all over the world (from Chicago Dogs to Nathans, from foot-longs in Texas to Reindeer Dogs in Reykjavik and Anchorage) nothing I MEAN NOTHING comes close to a “Ripper” at Rutt’s Hut in Clifton, NJ.

First, a disclaimer.   Hot dogs are hot dogs.  Mystery meat rolled in natural or unnatural casings and boiled, grilled, or in the case of Rutt’s Hut deep fried.  Yes, you read that right.  Rutt’s Hut’s “Rippers” are dunked in a vat of hot oil and cooked until the casings rip open.  Hence the name “Ripper”.    Two “Rippers”, a white paper plate of oily onion rings, and a Pepsi is a perfect amount of New Jersey dining.  I do resist the urge to order French fries (although to hear the cashier yell out “Frenchy-one-a” is almost worth ordering fries instead of the rings).

Rutt’s Hut is obviously not fine dining.  There are two parts to this establishment:  the counter service in the back and the full-service restaurant in the front.  Unless you have an aversion to standing while eating, use the back counters.  On a recent visit I found out they upgraded the counters and no longer have the kids counters that were attached to the counters so little munchkins could eat standing as well. This is very disappointing.  I remember bringing my own kids to Rutt’s and they ate their “Rippers” from the same counters that I (forty or some-odd years prior) ate from.  The restaurant area has a full service bar, so if a couple of cocktails are your thing, head to the front.

Don’t expect much from the counter service area.  Some old advertisements and sample Rutt’s Hut T-shirts for sale don the walls.  The place is surprisingly clean.  Not eat-off-the-floor clean, but clean enough to feel comfortable.  The first time I took Elena to Rutt’s Hut we were coming from a wedding in NYC and were decked out in a suit and dress but we still felt comfortable there. 

How to dress your dog.  Rutt’s makes a homemade relish that is top-notch; however, I am a hot dog purist and settle only for some spicy brown mustard.  There is much more on the menu; however, stick with the “Rippers”, frenchy-one-a’s, or onion rings.  Leave the pickle wedges, ketchup, onions, and chili to the other guys.

Meaza Ethiopian Restaurant - Falls Church, VA

5700 Columbia Pike

Falls Church, VA

703-820-2870

Our meal at Meaza began with an appetizer order of Sambusas--deep fried pastry pillow of lentils, green peppers, and onions.  Our main course consisted of two kinds of Tibs, which were the less spicy house specialty Meaza Tibs and the more spicy Awaze Tibs.  The Meaza Tibs were reminiscent of Mexican fajitas;  a sizzling tray with cubes of beef sautéed with jalapeno peppers, onions, and garlic.  The Meaza Tibs were dry and steak like.  The Awaze Tibs were a tasty blend of onions, awaze sauce, and garlic.  The Awaze Tibs were prepared in sauce.  We also got the #7 Vegetarian Combo.  This was a great way to sample lots of flavors and we wound up taking about a third of it home.

The simple décor is limited to portraits of Ethiopian rulers up to Haile Selasse in an otherwise undecorated multiple level hall.  The furniture could use some updating.  The Achilles heel of this otherwise pleasant experience was the server’s limited understanding of English.  Plan on trying to be patient as you convey your orders.  We were left wondering on a few occasions if the server actually got our order correct.  Saturday nights there is a band in the dining room.  We have yet to hear them (they do not start until 10pm) and have yet to partake in their coffee ceremony (they end at 6pm).  Other than the décor and service, and commenting on the food alone, Meaza is one terrific meal.